South Africa is a huge and high interior plateau surrounded by mountain ranges that descends abruptly to the coastal plain. Within this simple structure displays an amazing variety of landscapes: the emerald green mountains of the Drakensberg Mountains, the spectacular Blyde River Canyon, the system of dunes and salt marshes of St. Lucia, the harsh and arid Karoo and Richtersveld, the red sands of the Kalahari and strangely contorted strata of the Cape Fold Mountains.
country is a big, very big, between the warm Indian Ocean in the east and cooler in the western Atlantic with a coastline that stretches to the northeast and northwest along the 3,000 km. The country's highest point is the peak Injisuthi in the Drakensberg mountains, which reaches 3,408 m. Rainfall is scarce in most parts of the country and only two major rivers cross it. The Gariep River, of 2,187 km, also known as Orange, which originates in the highlands of Lesotho and its tributary, the Vaal, born in Mpumalanga and flows over 1,120 km to meet the Gariep.
this spectacular panorama view of what direction to go? Reyes is
Iberia flight attendant and had a line to Johannesburg let us two full days for long bike trips, the kingdom of Mpumalanga seemed a good target. contacted with a motorcycle rental company in Johannesburg (MOTO BERLIN) which provided an excellent fully equipped BMW R1200GS also took us to the hotel the night before so we could leave early the next day.
early breakfast, we loaded the team for two days in the bags from the bike and well equipped for the cold we set off towards our first destination, Dullstroom. The output of the city was not complicated, is well signposted and being a bit careful not present more difficulties than the heavy traffic. On the N12 towards Emalahleni (Witbank). This is a road that is objectively boring but new to us and therefore entertaining. It was cold and windy, very uncomfortable to drive which forced to go at a leisurely pace, thermal clothing fortunately fulfilled their duties in this sunny but cold morning in South Africa.
After Witbank on the N4 to Belfast and the R540 to Dullstroom . The roads are good, the landscape is becoming more beautiful and without realizing riding very fast. Dullstroom is 1,964 m above sea level, this explains the drop in temperature that we noted in that area, about three hours Johannesburg, Kruger Road. It has an idyllic landscape, countless antique and junk shops, quaint cafes and a friendly relaxed atmosphere. This small town is famous for being the main destination for fly fishing in South Africa and good places to make a beer very rich. But this place has a past so pleasant drive. During the second Boer War (1899-1902) British soldiers decimated the population as part of their scorched earth campaign and many men went into hiding to try to fight a guerrilla war against the British.
We ate at a very nice and welcoming, especially since the fire burned for warmth, The Anvil Ale House. On the card they gave us it says: "Find out what's brewing" . A small taste of their beer is required.
After we stop rewarding to Lyndeburg Pass through the Santa , a spectacular mountain pass over 2100 m. Lyndeburg From the R36 to the junction with the mountain road that crosses the Robbers Pass, Pilgrim's Rest and reaches Graskop. This last leg was the most beautiful day. The Robbers Pass offers very beautiful views at sunset and stop at Pilgrim's Rest is essential.
whole population is a living fossil and a visit takes you back in time, the time of the gold rush of the old Transvaal. Pilgrim's Rest has charm, but you wonder what attracts a person to a lost like this. The answer lies in the soil. Almost everything that happened here from 1873 revolves around this precious and elusive metal. The people held in September, the South African Championships Gold Search will not get rich but surely it will go well.
A Walk in the population allowed us to see many of the original buildings made of wood and tin roof and the service station where they refuel, the house where he lived Alanglade director of the Transvaal Gold Mining Estate Ltd Royal Hotel or late Victorian style and one of the most famous of South Africa.
"And in this quiet town in the middle of South Africa, the Royal Hotel we find Carlos Queiroz," coach of Portugal, who was spending a quiet day vacation with his wife for the land. We chatted a while with them about their stay at the place, our trip and the surprise of the meeting, no football, courtesy of the world champions. They were very friendly. The news spread through the town as fast as the gold rush.
After the visit to this charming follow to the nearby town of Graskop where we intended to sleep. Graskop is a quiet town at the gates of the Panorama Route, the R532, which runs along the rugged northern limits of the Drakensberg mountains and is a of the most beautiful roads in South Africa.
In this population there are enough B & B and had no trouble finding a cozy Autumn Breath run by Johann & Ina. After a refreshing hot shower we went out to dinner, very well and cheaply, 250 RAND, to a place recommended by our hosts, kitchen Canimambo Portuguese and Mozambican. We did mention that the population was quiet but when Friday night would find entertainment in the streets .... I do not know if they understood the term "animated" because there were not many people except in a bar biker, whose name I forget, where some guys talked and drank beer motorcycle, that was very quiet.
As a last detail of the day I have to admit that although the room was very cold that night we was about to get up to get the thermal underwear but the bike finally I fell asleep. During the day this time of year the temperature is low to go on a bike but at night down a lot and although we had an electric heater was not enough to warm the room.
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Day 2: Graskop, Blyde River Canyon-Johannesburg (557 kms)
The day started good with a very pleasant temperature. We got up early because we were ahead on a long journey that would take us to the Panorama Route Blyde River Canyon , one of the great wonders of the African continent. Is about 50 km long and is the third largest canyon in the world after the Grand Canyon in the USA and the Fish River Canyon in Namibia.
During the lavish breakfast the owner of the establishment, Ina, was telling us a lot about the area and recommended us some places we should not miss, she had gone and always they liked. A very pleasant conversation and is a good example of how these small tourism entrepreneurs are very pleasant stay in your home.
Our route would be on Panorama Route, the R532, marked clearly, and that runs parallel to the most spectacular canyon. The road begins at Graskop and let us enjoy very beautiful views.
A few kms of the population is to make the first stop in a place called The Pinnacle, a spectacular rock that rises more than 30 m above the indigenous forest, then God's Window where we enjoy each the best views. Before us the amazing landscape of forests that cling to the sides of the gorge with cliffs exceeding 900 m and rush towards the Lowveld and game reserves; in the distance Kruger National Park and Mozambique; "veld" Afrikaans is a word that means "wide open rural spaces" and certainly that was the spectacle that unfolded before our eyes. For me it is overwhelming, a gift. 
Later Lowveld View with stunning views of the canyon, the Blyde Dam and Lowveld. This point is located among other wonders, the Three Rondavels and Bourke's Luck Potholes . The Bourke's are some ancient caves formed in the bed of the river by the swirling water, sand and rock where the Treur joins the Blyde.
About 14 kms north, are the Three Rondavels . They are gigantic boulders that resemble the native huts (rondavels). It is a very picturesque place with spectacular views. No doubt it is one of the most impressive tours we have done on a bike and also with the magical feeling of being in Africa. His light always seems special.
the recommendation of Ina, the owner of B & B in Graskop at the crossroads of the Panorama Route with the R36 we turn right to reach the JG Strijdom Tunnel through the Abel Erasmus Pass . In this place, and on both sides of the tunnel meet small traders buying and selling handicrafts, fruits, etc.. The view on either side are well worth the detour. We bought a lady who had a fruit well worth a bag of macadamia nuts. She was with her children and also sold crafts. I think we asked for € 2 per bag, I felt unable to bargain.
We turned around and the R36 started way back through Ohrigstad (in Afrikaans, Ohrig city. Here refueling water bought in a store place where the cashier was protected by a cage, the owner was white and looked quite intimidating, we were invisible, no one approached, nobody looked at us, we paid and we left with the same indifference with which we come. I've been in Senegal with my good friend Juan Recio, also went on a bike, with two very old Yamaha XT 600. There in the villages people came to greet us We shook hands, trying to learn things from us and when we had a problem always someone to lend us his help. This is different, is the part that always concerns us in Africa. Today the place does not offer much but has an interesting background to understand an important part of the history of these lands. It was a fort established by a group of voortrekkers , with the help of a Dutch merchant named Gregorius Ohrig . The Voortrekkers were emigrants during the decade of 1830-1840 left the Cape Colony moving into what is now South Africa. It is an Afrikaans and Dutch term meaning "those who go ahead." Settlers arrived in 1841 but were decimated by malaria but returned when the disease was under control. In May 1873 the area was proclaimed as a public gold field had its time of splendor until it ran out of veins.
decided not to return for Dullstroom so we follow the R36 through Lydenburg , Klipskool , Kwena Dam to link with the N4 to Machadodrop and then Belfast. ;
Lydenburg was alive, I suppose because it was Saturday and be open shops but from this town and the N4 until you reach the way we did it almost without crossing with someone, circulábamos very broad taste for places that made us feel we were far away.
Our intention was to arrive before dark to Johannesburg and uncomplicated in a city they say dangerous especially at night. But an unforeseen arose. We were a bit short of fuel in reserve, we stopped at a gas station and the highway about 60 km from Johannesburg but it was gone and did not work the current suppliers. We were told it would take some time to resolve so I decided to wait. Those who were coming, given the situation, they decided to move on. After a while wonder what was the next service station but was at a distance was not advisable to try to reach at risk of being stranded dark. It was already six in the evening and the light was waning until a moment literally "fell the night." We proposed approach to a small pump located on a side road behind the gas station and there we went along with two cars, some farmers and some plumbers, all white. But the pump did not work. The next alternative was to go about 10 miles to another town that had a big gas station, so we got to the head of the convoy of two cars and our bike in order to get gas. The landscape suddenly changed, it was hard, lonely and a dense fog that was above our heads as the cold air of the evening would not let her escape, but the spread in the distance. This was the fog of the billboards on the freeway warned, but where it came from? Our surprise was the realization that came from the humble houses to burn anything to heat up.
From the chimneys of every house in a village of some length that appeared before us left a wisp of smoke from their stoves and battered-looking heavy fog ghostly covered the whole place. Groups of people walked towards the houses and others were sitting by the roadside or at the door of some of them. I would not like anything that the bike had been standing on that site. For peace of my thoughts easily reach the gas station, fill the tank and went quickly to the N12 in the direction of Johannesburg. It was late, good only at 19:30 but it was night.
The roadbook he had prepared and carried on the tank of the bike was good but the difficulty lay in the heavy and fast traffic are to enter the city. Carefully watch for signs and detours we finally arrived at the hotel. Mission accomplished: about 960 kms in two intense days of motorcycle touring some amazing places. Now a shower and dinner and what better place to do it in the Sandton area, where was our hotel, the famous The Butcher Shop & Grill in Nelson Mandela Square, a lively local where you can buy or enjoy a good meal "the best south african beef." 472 RAND magnificent dinner for two.
From the chimneys of every house in a village of some length that appeared before us left a wisp of smoke from their stoves and battered-looking heavy fog ghostly covered the whole place. Groups of people walked towards the houses and others were sitting by the roadside or at the door of some of them. I would not like anything that the bike had been standing on that site. For peace of my thoughts easily reach the gas station, fill the tank and went quickly to the N12 in the direction of Johannesburg. It was late, good only at 19:30 but it was night.
The roadbook he had prepared and carried on the tank of the bike was good but the difficulty lay in the heavy and fast traffic are to enter the city. Carefully watch for signs and detours we finally arrived at the hotel. Mission accomplished: about 960 kms in two intense days of motorcycle touring some amazing places. Now a shower and dinner and what better place to do it in the Sandton area, where was our hotel, the famous The Butcher Shop & Grill in Nelson Mandela Square, a lively local where you can buy or enjoy a good meal "the best south african beef." 472 RAND magnificent dinner for two.
The bright R1200GS rested that night in the hotel garage and the next day early in BERLIN MOTO boys went to pick it up.
we still have Sunday morning and the market Rosebank was a very appealing option. Very lively, colorful and entertaining in this market you can make last minute shopping and most of all have a very nice morning. Live music with the same bands that play here in a wedding, birthday or a funeral, clothes stalls, crafts, spices of many colors, flavors, and food without missing the biltong beef that is seasoned and allowed to dry, fifth-hand items, etc.
I totally agree with those who think that Africa is still unknown and the wild side as portrayed by travelers and adventurers from all walks of life. Its nature is still there, round and infinite, is the main course awaits the approaching from the land. The magnitude of his nature is so brutal that before going there it's hard to imagine but then in our civilized Europe, is remembered as a dream. As we said Otto, an employee of the hotel where we stayed, South Africa is a great country. This land waiting for, as the writer Javier Reverte, for once, to feel some browsers.
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Handbook.
currency. € 1 is equivalent to 9.33 RAND. The price of gasoline is about 0.68 € / liter
Cheap . Iberia direct. My wife Reyes is surcharge of 340 and between 14 and 18 July he had to do a line to Johannesburg, so we took to plan the route by motorcycle. (This route is highly recommended for the crew and technicians of the company and are lovers of travel by motorcycle)
bike rental. We did manage the company from Madrid MOTO BERLIN ( www.motoberlin.com ). Very good staff. We set up a brand new BMW R1200GS and 1000 km with luggage free of charge, delivered the night before departure and collected the day after arrival at the hotel for 3,300 RAND (tax included). The treatment of the person responsible in Johannesburg, Quan Engelbrecht has been excellent. South Africa has good taste for motorcycles. Accommodation
. Across the road is easy to find good and nice B & B, farms or the splendid lodge usually within national parks, where obviously you can not ride the bike. Our experience: a double room with breakfast in a charming B & B RAND
by 440 maps and guides
. I always use the editorial Reise, who purchased the library Travel (Madrid). In South Africa are changing place names from English into the local language. Thus some road signs are unknown and need good map a recent issue and have useful information to get where you want.
Text: José Ramón Noguerol
Photos: José Ramón Reyes Married Noguerol
